Bunge's Automotive Blog
Windshield wipers have come a long way since they were first patented in 1903. (That first design was a lever-operated system the driver had to manually crank. Not all that effective, but probably a great workout.)
Today, we have two types of wiper blades: standard blades and beam blades with plenty of technology bundled into both. Standard blades are the ones most of us are used to. They have quite a few exposed and moving parts. Beam blades, on the other hand, have fewer moving parts and provide a much more contemporary look. They’re also more aerodynamic and provide consistent, full coverage on your windshield. It’s no surprise that almost 70% of new cars come equipped with beam blades these days.
That’s not to say there aren’t quality standard blades and poorly made beam blades—you’re likely going to get what you pay for. But, by and large, the beam blade is less affected by high winds and gives you better all-weather performance—it’s just a better design. And on America’s roads, that little edge can be huge: 23% of the almost 6 million car accidents in the US are caused by poor visibility.
In the Midwest, where your wipers are likely to experience plenty of heat and bitter cold, you should consider changing your blades twice a year. Also, blades tend to show signs of wear before they fail. If your blades leave streaks on your windshield, or “skitter” over the glass, get some repla
One of the most common misperceptions about winter driving is you must idle your car’s engine before driving. In fact, a recent study showed that the majority of Americans believed idling your engine was a good thing and that you should idle for about five minutes. The reasons people give for why this is necessary range from fuel economy to engine health, but according to science, there’s really only one good reason to idle your car: Nobody likes climbing into a freezing cold cab for their morning commute.
Like most myths about cars, there are elements of truth to idling your car. In the old days, when cars relied on a carburetor to get the right mix of air and fuel, a cold carburetor could mean stalling your car—only when they were properly warmed up did they function properly. However, in the 80’s and 90’s, auto manufacturers did away with carburetors in favor of electronic fuel injection. Unless you’ve got your antique out for a spin on wintry roads, there’s no advantage to idling.
Further, it’s true that cold engines and cold weather cause a marked dip in fuel efficiency. In addition, it takes much longer for a car to warm up and reach ideal driving temperatures when the snow flies. But the fact of the matter is a car actually heats up quicker while it’s being driven, not while it’s sitting there in your driveway with the defrost blasting, and there’s precious little you can do be
When your car’s heater malfunctions in the winter, it’s not just uncomfortable—it’s downright dangerous. Besides warming you up on your morning commute, your heater serves as a tool to keep your windshield and windows clear of frost, snow, and condensation. Unfortunately, most car heater problems require professional intervention; there aren’t many issues you can fix at home unless you’re handy with cars. Fortunately, most of the fixes are relatively cheap and fast.
Your car’s heater works by taking hot air from the engine and transferring it to your car’s interior using fluids and fans. The two most common problems you’ll experience with your heater—cold air coming from the vents or no air coming from the vents—can both be traced back to that simple process.
If your car is blowing cold air, the heat from your engine is not being transferred to your heater. One of the most likely culprits is a low coolant level, often caused by a leak. Check beneath your car after its been parked for a while. If you see liquid with a greenish color, it’s likely coolant and low levels of coolant mean no heat, and a whole lot of other potential problems. Another cause of cold air from the vents is a busted or stuck thermostat. If a thermostat malfunctions, your car isn’t told to circulate fluid around your engine to pick up the heat. You’ll get air in your cabin, but it won&rs
As fall starts to give way to winter, new hazards come with the colder temperatures. As anybody who’s had their car fail on a freezing day can tell you, it’s the worst time for small maintenance issues to become big problems.
One of the first casualties can be your tires. Colder temperatures cause the air pressure in your tires to drop. That means that potholes and other sudden bumps are more likely to damage your tire’s internal structure. Keep an eye on your tire pressure, and make sure to check for signs of damaged tires such as bulges and blisters.
There’s an old saying: “Batteries die in summer, but fall over in winter.” Extreme temperatures on both ends of the thermometer drain and even damage your battery but a good amount of the “stuff” inside your battery is actually distilled water, meaning it's susceptible to freezing. If you’re noticing signs of a weakening battery, or if it's been a while since you had your battery checked or replaced, don’t wait till it snows to make sure you’re ready for the winter.
A final cold temperature culprit is road salt. While many people think they only have to worry about their car’s body, the real damage can happen underneath. Brake and fuel lines are susceptible to corrosion, and if you have chrome wheels, the damage caused by salt can be almost impossible to fix cost-effectively. Do go over your car before the snow comes and fix any mi
If you’re looking to upgrade to an SUV this winter, or if you’re ready to move on to a new car, there’s a few things you can do to help get your car ready to sell for a fair price.
At home, clean your car inside and out. To clean dirt out of the nooks and crannies, use compressed air and then vacuum thoroughly. When a prospective buyer looks in your car, you don’t want their first impression to be that French fry that slipped between the seats.
When washing your car, use brushes with plastic handles and no metal components. It might seem like a no-brainer, but too many people scuff and scratch their car’s exterior using brushes not meant for the task.
Always use two buckets when washing your car. In one, simple rinse water. In the other, your soap and water. Always dip your rag or mitt in the rinse bucket first. Any grit will come off in the rinse bucket and won’t get ground into your car’s finish as you wash.
Bring your car into Bunge’s and we’ll perform a general inspection, making sure all your systems are running smoothly. While you might not need to spend hundreds to get your car ready to sell, knowing if there’s anything wrong will eliminate surprises for buyer and seller.
A final step is to make sure your vehicle’s tags are updated. In Illinois, we’ve always received a reminder in the mail. This year will be the first we won’t get that reminder, so yo